Emerald

Emerald was regarded as magical and mystical to ancient Egyptians.  The Inca and Aztecs found great wealth in the abundant emeralds of the Yucatan. Eventually, Spaniards, who discovered the western hemisphere, returned to Europe with the finest emeralds they had ever seen. Hernando Cortes, the conqueror of Mexico, tried to bring huge chunks of Emerald that he took from the Aztecs back home with him. However, one of his ships was shipwrecked, and delicately carved Emeralds in the shape of flowers and fish and other rare Emeralds, including an Emerald the size of a man’s palm were lost forever.

Colombia, Brazil, and Zambia are major sources of emerald. Colombia, however, is well known for the finest quality and commands a premium. Emeralds, by nature, are more heavily included than other gems.  To find an eye-clean emerald is extremely rare.

Zambian emerald rivals the saturation of Colombian emeralds. However, they tend to be darker in tone. Zambian emeralds are generally cleaner internally than Colombian, so they tend to be a great option for the middle price range.

Brazil is the main source for commercial color emeralds. Washed out in appearance, they do have the redeeming quality of above-average clarity.

Ruby

One of “The Big Three”, ruby is considered the King of Gems. Throughout time, ruby has been historically the most prized of all colored gemstones. Worn only by royalty for many centuries, rubies are mined in Thailand, Burma, and Sri Lanka, with Vietnam and southeastern parts of Africa as more recently discovered sources. Ruby is second only to diamond in hardness, along with sapphire its mineral cousin.

“Pigeon’s blood” red is considered the finest red in ruby. Myanmar (formerly Burma) is the source of the world’s finest quality rubies. Burma’s finer rubies have become increasingly more difficult to find. It is speculated that the mines were played out several decades ago and what was coming out were hoarded goods. However, the U.S. banned trade with Myanmar in 2003. Since then, the trade was limited to what was left in U.S. wholesalers’ coffers, resulting in a spike in pricing. Recently, the embargo on Myanmar was lifted, and Burma ruby can now be found more readily available. In the meantime, African ruby has made a name for itself presenting some very fine specimens.

Myanmar is also home to a huge supply of commercial (low) quality ruby, mined in the Mong Hsu region. These stones are opaque, highly included, and milky. Extensive heat treatments, along with filling, make these stones marketable.

Ruby Treatments

Rubies are routinely heat treated to enhance their clarity and color. Natural, unheated rubies are extremely rare and command double the price in lower qualities and sizes and more than ten times the price in top quality, larger gems. More recently, commercial quality rubies have been heated and impregnated with a leaded glass substance. In these highly fractured stones, the leaded glass “heals” the fracture and makes it less visible. The level of this treatment can be minimal to extensive, depending on the extent of fracturing throughout the stone. The color of these rubies is pleasant, and the treatment not apparent to the untrained eye. However, care in wearing is essential for these types of treated rubies as the glass filling can be affected by common household cleansers as well as a jeweler’s torch.

Star Ruby

Star rubies are mined only in Burma and Sri Lanka. The star is caused by a reflection of rutile needles within the gemstone, intersecting in a hexagonal pattern (following the hexagonal crystal growth). As with sapphires, they are difficult to find due to the prevalence of heat treatments. The DeLong Star Ruby, weighing 100 carats, was stolen in an infamous jewelry heist in the 1960’s. A ransom was paid and it was dropped off at a phone booth in Florida and ultimately recovered. It is now on display at the American Museum of Natural History.

July’s birthstone, ruby is a perfect option for rings, even for men, due to its hardness and durability. Many medieval Europeans wore rubies to secure health, wealth, and wisdom. Red is the color of passion, and ruby is thought to attract love. It is also believed to bring success in business. Ruby represents the 40th wedding anniversary.

Sapphire

Worn by royalty throughout history, sapphire belongs to the corundum mineral group along with ruby.  In ancient times, it was believed that sapphire colored the sky.  Sapphire is a classic; one of the “Big Three”. It rates 9 on the Mohs scale, second only to diamond and is considered durable enough even for men’s wear. It is a popular alternative for an engagement ring. However, as with all fine jewelry, diamonds, and gemstones, sapphire requires some care in wearing. Sapphires can chip and scratch with heavy wear, so it’s recommended to take your rings off when active.

Due to sapphire’s high refractive index and hardness, they are a vibrant gemstone. Blue is the most common color, but sapphire is found in almost every color in the rainbow. Sapphires are mined in Australia, Burma, Sri Lanka, and East Africa. Sapphires are also mined in Montana and are named “Yogo” sapphires for their Yogo Gulch origin.

Fine cornflower blues are typical in “Ceylon” or Sri Lankan sapphires. Some consider this color bright and open. Vivid blue is the most valuable, mainly mined in Burma. However, the pinnacle of fine color blue sapphire is the Kashmir sapphire. Discovered in the late 19th century, sapphires mined in the Kashmir region display an electric blue unrivaled by any other. The mine was exhausted only 50 years after it was discovered, and you will only see Kashmir sapphires from older jewelry.

Most “blue” sapphire that’s marketed today is mined in Australia, the largest volume producer of sapphire in the world. This commercial (low) quality sapphire is dark ink blue and runs about $300 retail for a one-carat gemstone.  Fine quality sapphire runs $3,000 to $4,000 for a one-carat gemstone.

Padparadscha Sapphire

Padparadscha is the rarest color of sapphire. Think of the color of a warm tropical sunset. Orangey­ pink, a perfect balance of the two. These gems are even scarcer than fine rubies.

The vast majority of sapphires of all colors are heated to raise clarity (dissolve inclusions)  and enhance color. Diffusion is another type of treatment used to enhance color. Diffusion is a highly contested form of sapphire treatment, mainly due to the fact that the color saturation is only skin deep and can be affect with scratching or re-polishing.

Star Sapphire

Star sapphires and rubies are a phenomenal gem. Reflection of rutile needles within the gemstone cause the star, or asterism, intersecting in a hexagonal pattern (following the hexagonal crystal growth). Fine star sapphires were very popular about 40 years ago, but the industry has seen a decrease in availability of stars due to the prevalence of heat treatments at the source.  Quality factors in stars are a sharp (not blurry or wavy) six-sided star that extends to the edges. A top-quality gem will be translucent with a top not too high or shallow and a bottom not too heavy. And, of course, saturation of color is important.

Sapphire is said to foster creative expression, intuition, meditation, and mental clarity. It is also considered an antidote for depression. Medieval Kings believed that sapphire would protect them from harm and envy. By the time of the Renaissance, sapphires were coveted by the wealthy and influential. Sapphires were credited with the ability of preventing poverty, making an irritable man good-tempered and a stupid man wise.

Blue sapphire is considered September’s birthstone as well as representing the 5th and 45th wedding anniversaries. All sapphires are durable and wear well in rings.

 

Spring rolls around like clockwork every year. And every spring, I can count on seeing clients who have gone on vacation to sunny destinations and brought back jeweled baubles from their trip. Their stories are unique, but the theme is the same – “Boy, did I get taken…did I pay too much?”

It takes me back to a three-part series of articles I wrote last year titled, “Going on a Tropical Vacation? Why You Should Bring Home T-Shirts, Not Jewelry.” Here are links to Part I, Part II, and Part III. These three stories are worth reading, especially if you plan to travel to the tropics.

So far, those clients that have sought an appraisal for their vacation purchases have been disproportionately disappointed with their purchase. Most feel like they did not get a good value for the money spent. And when you’re spending thousands of dollars, that’s the last thing you want to feel.

If you’re headed on a tropical vacation soon, my advice – pick up some T-shirts!

In observation of Labor Day, I honor the people who work passionately to mine and cut the beautiful gems and design and craft the jewelry we wear and love. Here’s to you!

Click on each link to see inside the world of:

Diamond Miners

Diamond Cutters

Gemstone Cutters

Jewelry Design Artists

Jewelry Designers

Goldsmiths

Diamond Setters

Engravers

Although it seems that synthetic (man-made) diamonds are new on the scene, they have been around for decades. In fact, three scientists in early 20^th century claimed to have manufactured diamonds. General Electric was the first to synthesize diamonds with proven success in the early 1950’s. Since then, synthetic diamonds have been used for industrial purposes (think, diamond coated saw blades and drill bits). More recently, a division of DeBeers, Element Six manufactures synthetic diamonds for numerous applications in industries ranging from Aerospace to Healthcare, asserting, “Synthetic diamond’s molecular structure makes it the world’s most versatile supermaterial.”

In the world of jewelry, diamond simulants, such as cubic zirconia and moissanite, have been popular choices for those who want the look of diamond. However, simulants can be scratched and chipped much easier than diamond. Diamond is simply superior in every way. Because synthetic diamonds are the same physically and chemically as natural, earth-mined diamonds, they, too, are superior to all other simulants. This is great news for those who want the look of natural diamond along with unrivaled wearability.

The challenge for lab-grown diamond producers has been the ability to grow a colorless, gem quality diamond of a popular size at a reasonable price. As with any newly developing technology, advances in both quality and size as well as managing the cost of producing these diamonds so that they are available to the consumer at competitive prices has been a long journey. That journey is now starting to pay off as synthetic diamond producers are able to make 1-carat plus size diamonds available in relatively steady supply.

Consumers’ feedback shows that the appeal to purchasing a synthetic diamond is that they avoid the possibility of buying a conflict diamond. And price is attractive as well. Industry insiders report some worry from diamond wholesalers and retailers that synthetic diamonds will be the end of the natural diamond market. But, as history has shown, synthetic rubies, sapphires and emeralds have been on the market for about a century, yet the naturals rival their lab-grown counterparts today.

Would you consider purchasing a synthetic diamond?

A little more than a week ago, I heard the news that my mentor, Harold Tivol, had passed away. He was 92. If you’re from Kansas City, you likely recall Harold in his TV commercials. My favorite one is where it appears that you’re looking over the surface of the moon until the camera pans out and it turns out to be Harold’s bald head. Probably his most popular commercial is this one – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4ckFrrefFo – celebrating Tivol’s 100^th anniversary.

With Harold, what you see is what you get. As funny as he was in his commercials, he was just as fun-loving at the store every day he was there. And he was in the store every day well into his late 80’s. He LOVED being in the jewelry business. He loved it not for the money. That was a nice by-product, but his love was for the gemstones that were mined and fashioned into brilliant colors of the rainbow, and of the craftsmanship that defines the art of jewelry.

Beyond all of that, though, was Harold’s love of sharing his passion and his instinctive need to tell the truth, the whole truth. Telling the truth required always seeking the truth. Harold was a perpetual learner and caring teacher.

My career began at Tivol in 1988 directly after graduating from the Gemological Institute of America. That year, Harold received the Modern Jeweler Lifetime Achievement Award. His smiling face was on the cover of one of the most recognized industry magazines. I wouldn’t discover how lucky I was to work under Harold until years later when I came full circle and rejoined Tivol in 2006 as the Senior Gemologist and Appraiser.

I recall my final interview with Harold before I was hired. He asked me to appraise his Cat’s-eye Chrysoberyl ring on the spot. It was his prized piece of jewelry. He wore it every day. It’s a heavy platinum ring with diamonds flanking the exquisite and rare center Cat’s-eye. I told him that I don’t shoot from the hip. A thorough analysis of his Cat’s-eye and diamonds and research of the markets for value would take time. He grinned his signature grin and said, “I like your answer!”.

During my second term of service at Tivol, Harold would come into my office to talk business and to see what jewelry I was appraising that day. During our conversations, we sometimes had varying opinions and we would debate. He shared with me his wisdom and experience. I shared with him new trends that were happening that affected us and our clients. Harold kept me on my toes, and I thrived on his challenge to always do my best. It really hit me during these later years how much influence Harold had on me during those first years in my career. He didn’t even have to try. It was contagious, his drive to hold a high standard of ethics, to give information to empower others, to serve in the industry.

Now that I own my own business, I think of Harold often. My business model is to serve others with a bit of humor mixed in and with the highest level of honesty, integrity, and professionalism. As I carry on, Harold will always be a part of who I am at the Appraiser’s desk. He will always be a part of me, period.