I recently returned from a trip to New York City that included an afternoon visit to the New York Metropolitan Museum of Art. The special exhibit, Jewelry – The Body Transformed, was of particular interest to me for two reasons. As a Graduate Gemologist and Jewelry Appraiser, the subject of this exhibit is my passion. But most importantly, it was particularly satisfying to me to view the exquisite “Sweet Pea” brooch.

Marcus & Co.

The “Sweet Pea” brooch was crafted by the hands of a father and sons’ team, Marcus & Sons, circa 1900, and is one of the most complicated forms of jewelry made, even in today’s standards. Founded by Herman Marcus, a German immigrant to the U.S. in 1850, he worked for the venerable Tiffany & Co., eventually striking out on his own. His sons joined him in creating some of the most ornate Art Nouveau and Revivalist jewelry of their period.

The enamel work on this brooch is called “pliqué -a-jour”, a French term meaning open to light. The leaves and flowers are much like a miniature stained-glass window in an 18 karat yellow gold frame. This enameling technique is complicated on flat surfaces, so the three-dimensional form of this piece proves to be an extraordinary work of art. There are four articulated sections allowing the flowers and buds to flutter as the wearer moves. The buds that drop at the bottom consist of four conch pearls. Unlike the more common oyster pearl, conch pearls are produced by the rare Queen Conch mollusk. Only 1 in 10,000 mollusks hold a conch pearl. The leaves are adorned in platinum with diamonds set on a curve to create dimension and shimmer throughout.

One-of-a-Kind

The “Sweet Pea” brooch came across my desk in 2015. The owner had inherited the brooch many years prior and had kept it in its original box in safe keeping. It was in excellent condition for a century-old piece. Many pliqué-a-jour pieces have cracked and broken enamel, but this one showed none. The owner wished to sell the brooch to augment his impending retirement. After a less-than-pleasant experience at a “we buy gold” store, where the owner was offered $2,500, he decided to look for a second opinion. A referral from a trusted friend led him to call me and we met.

At first sight, I knew that this brooch was one-of-a-kind and of extraordinary design and quality. The trademark stamp “Marcus & Co.” indicated the maker. I immediately called a longtime friend and colleague on the east coast, Virginia Salem, and Director of the Fine Jewelry Department at Freemans Auction house. The owner of the brooch agreed to consign to the auction house, and the brooch made its way back east. Ms. Salem had seen other pieces by Marcus & Co. come across her desk, but this was one of the finest examples yet. With her knowledge and connections to dealers and collectors, she visited NYC to personally present the brooch to interested parties.

The Market Speaks

Eventually, the hammer fell at $161,000, far above the pathetic offer of $2500. The owner was thrilled. But there is more to the story. The winning bidder donated the “Sweet Pea” brooch to the New York Metropolitan Museum of Art. Now in its new home, thousands of visitors will be able to view an exquisite brooch they may well had never enjoyed the opportunity to see. Knowing I was able to facilitate in the journey of such important history in jewelry is deeply satisfying and is an experience that I will never be forget.

Tracey Kahle is a Certified Appraiser of Personal Property and GIA Graduate Gemologist, offering by-appointment jewelry appraisal services. She can be reached at 913-912-9122 or tracey@kahleappraisals.com.

Why did I pay so much, and when I consider selling my jewelry, I can expect only fraction of the price I paid? I thought diamonds were valuable…

First of all, to understand the value of jewelry in the retail market, it’s important to consider the source. Or should I say sources? That shiny object sitting in the locked case under perfect lighting in the jewelry store has been on quite a journey. And that journey involves many people who are just like you and me with families and a community they live in and support.

Tracey Kahle, GIA Graduate Gemologist and ISA Certified Appraiser of Personal Property (CAPP) has successfully completed the requalification process for maintaining her ISA CAPP as an appraiser of personal property by the International Society of Appraisers. ISA is the nation’s largest organization of personal property appraisers.

Requalification for professional appraisal credentials is required of all ISA members every five years. Candidates must pass an examination based on updated knowledge of appraising and report writing and submit documentation of having earned the required points for professional development activities, such as continuing education in their field.

Personal property appraisers must maintain proper professional credentials, essential for those who are dedicated to excellence in their field. To attain the ISA CAPP designation is a major professional achievement for personal property appraisers. The presence of the ISA logo is an assurance to the general public that they are working with appraisers who are dedicated to upholding the highest standards in accuracy, competency, and integrity in their professional endeavors.

The International Society of Appraisers (ISA), founded in 1979, provides education, certification, and advocacy to 1000 appraiser members in the United States, Canada, and other countries.

Be aware of these 5 jewelry appraisal myths:

1. Myth – All Jewelry Appraisers are the same.

Fact – Unlike Real Estate Appraisers, Jewelry Appraisers are not required to be licensed. Look for an Appraiser who is a GIA Graduate Gemologist and has been credentialed through an Appraisal Organization, i.e, International Association of Appraisers, American Society of Appraisers, or National Association of Jewelry Appraisers. These organizations offer education in Appraisal Theory and Methodology, require formal education related to the specialty practiced, and review the work conducted by the appraiser.

2. Myth – By-appointment appraisal services are expensive.

Fact – Kahle Appraisals’ service fees are competitive with jewelry stores who offer the service. Service fees with large jobs (15+ items) are even more affordable, often averaging $35-$55 per item.

3. Myth – Jewelry increases consistently in value.

Fact – All precious metal, gemstone, diamond, and pearl markets move independently of one another; and sometimes decrease in value.

4. Myth – Automatic inflation bumps on insurance policies eliminate the need to update jewelry appraisals.

Fact –Advise your client to update the appraisals of their collection at least every 5 years. This prevents duplicates, catches condition issues, discovers newly acquired items that are not yet covered, removes items the client may have sold or handed down to a family member. It also accounts for any extraordinary changes in market values.

5. Myth – Motivating my client to get their jewelry appraised is a pain.

Fact – It’s as easy as a-b-c:

1. Connect your client with Tracey Kahle in a shared email.
2. Tracey follows up with client to schedule appraisal appointment and handles any details or questions.
3. Upon completion, Tracey immediately emails the new appraisal to you.

How to tell if your diamond certificate and appraisal are legitimate.

Starting the diamond buying process by educating one’s self about diamonds is the smart thing to do. Learning the Gemological Institute of America’s “4 C’s” of diamond quality to help determine how best your money is spent is important. Many diamonds these days are accompanied by a “diamond certificate” or diamond grading report. This is a third-party assessment of quality factors. But how do you know if your diamond certificate is legitimate or even worth the paper it’s printed on?

I was driven to write about this subject after having a few separate clients seek an appraisal on their recent new diamond purchases. Each of these clients had bought their diamond rings online. They all felt like they had done their due diligence in determining what quality of diamond they intended on purchasing. And the rings were delivered with what appeared to be an authentic lab report issued by the Gemological Institutes Services (GIS).

But it turns out the diamond certificate delivered with their new ring was bogus. Not only was the clarity overstated, resulting in a gross exaggeration of quality. The “replacement value” reported was also extremely inflated, indicating that the diamond was worth triple the price paid. As it turns out, all the diamonds were very low quality (I-2 to I-3) and had been clarity enhanced to improve their appearance. The clarity enhancement used is called “fracture filling” and is a process by which leaded glass is injected by vacuum into fissures inside the diamond. Fracture filling is relatively stable. But it can be damaged with heat during repairs and sometimes harsh chemicals used in cleaning products. None of my clients were aware they had purchased a treated diamond. Furthermore, the clarity grade stated on each of these so-called “diamond certificates” did not accurately reflect the apparent clarity post-treatment.

Did they get what they paid for?

Yes and no. Was the price they paid fair for what they received? Yes. Were they accurately informed about what they were getting? No. You’ve likely heard the proverb, “You can put lipstick on a pig, but it’s still a pig.” The GIS diamond certificate is the lipstick in this case.

How to avoid a similar experience when shopping for diamonds? Look for a diamond certificate, or grading report, issued by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). GIA is the leading authority on diamonds and diamond grading. Accept nothing less and you are guaranteed accurate reporting of diamond qualities and any treatments that may be present.

Also, take a look at the appraisal that may have been issued with your purchase. If the replacement cost stated is well above your purchase price, consider that a red flag and get a second opinion. The seller of your new ring is motivated to make you feel that you received an exceptional deal. That inflated value will only disserve you.

When insuring your new ring, the premium you pay is, in large part, related to the value stated on your appraisal. And, if you suffer a loss, your insurance company is most certainly not going to pay out more than your diamond is really worth. Don’t get sucked into paying more in insurance premiums than you should. If you feel you have an inflated appraisal, seek out an independent jewelry appraiser for an accurate assessment and appraisal report.

Emerald

Emerald was regarded as magical and mystical to ancient Egyptians.  The Inca and Aztecs found great wealth in the abundant emeralds of the Yucatan. Eventually, Spaniards, who discovered the western hemisphere, returned to Europe with the finest emeralds they had ever seen. Hernando Cortes, the conqueror of Mexico, tried to bring huge chunks of Emerald that he took from the Aztecs back home with him. However, one of his ships was shipwrecked, and delicately carved Emeralds in the shape of flowers and fish and other rare Emeralds, including an Emerald the size of a man’s palm were lost forever.

Colombia, Brazil, and Zambia are major sources of emerald. Colombia, however, is well known for the finest quality and commands a premium. Emeralds, by nature, are more heavily included than other gems.  To find an eye-clean emerald is extremely rare.

Zambian emerald rivals the saturation of Colombian emeralds. However, they tend to be darker in tone. Zambian emeralds are generally cleaner internally than Colombian, so they tend to be a great option for the middle price range.

Brazil is the main source for commercial color emeralds. Washed out in appearance, they do have the redeeming quality of above-average clarity.

Trapiche Emerald

Trapiche emeralds are an extremely rare variety of emerald. Cut in cabochon form, they display a hexagonal center with six radiating sections, following the growth of the original crystal. These rarities are found only in the Muzo mining district of Colombia. The Spanish name trapiche was attached to this unique gem due to its similarity in appearance to a wheel used for grinding sugar. A top quality trapiche emerald may display a glow or chatoyancy caused by fine needle-like inclusions.

Emerald is May’s birthstone and represents the 20^th and 35th wedding anniversaries. This gem can be worn in a ring, but special care is recommended in wearing.  Emeralds should never be cleaned by ultrasonic or steamer. Soap and water with a toothbrush is the best cleaning method.

Ruby

One of “The Big Three”, ruby is considered the King of Gems. Throughout time, ruby has been historically the most prized of all colored gemstones. Worn only by royalty for many centuries, rubies are mined in Thailand, Burma, and Sri Lanka, with Vietnam and southeastern parts of Africa as more recently discovered sources. Ruby is second only to diamond in hardness, along with sapphire its mineral cousin.

“Pigeon’s blood” red is considered the finest red in ruby. Myanmar (formerly Burma) is the source of the world’s finest quality rubies. Burma’s finer rubies have become increasingly more difficult to find. It is speculated that the mines were played out several decades ago and what was coming out were hoarded goods. However, the U.S. banned trade with Myanmar in 2003. Since then, the trade was limited to what was left in U.S. wholesalers’ coffers, resulting in a spike in pricing. Recently, the embargo on Myanmar was lifted, and Burma ruby can now be found more readily available. In the meantime, African ruby has made a name for itself presenting some very fine specimens.

Myanmar is also home to a huge supply of commercial (low) quality ruby, mined in the Mong Hsu region. These stones are opaque, highly included, and milky. Extensive heat treatments, along with filling, make these stones marketable.

Ruby Treatments

Rubies are routinely heat treated to enhance their clarity and color. Natural, unheated rubies are extremely rare and command double the price in lower qualities and sizes and more than ten times the price in top quality, larger gems. More recently, commercial quality rubies have been heated and impregnated with a leaded glass substance. In these highly fractured stones, the leaded glass “heals” the fracture and makes it less visible. The level of this treatment can be minimal to extensive, depending on the extent of fracturing throughout the stone. The color of these rubies is pleasant, and the treatment not apparent to the untrained eye. However, care in wearing is essential for these types of treated rubies as the glass filling can be affected by common household cleansers as well as a jeweler’s torch.

Star Ruby

Star rubies are mined only in Burma and Sri Lanka. The star is caused by a reflection of rutile needles within the gemstone, intersecting in a hexagonal pattern (following the hexagonal crystal growth). As with sapphires, they are difficult to find due to the prevalence of heat treatments. The DeLong Star Ruby, weighing 100 carats, was stolen in an infamous jewelry heist in the 1960’s. A ransom was paid and it was dropped off at a phone booth in Florida and ultimately recovered. It is now on display at the American Museum of Natural History.

July’s birthstone, ruby is a perfect option for rings, even for men, due to its hardness and durability. Many medieval Europeans wore rubies to secure health, wealth, and wisdom. Red is the color of passion, and ruby is thought to attract love. It is also believed to bring success in business. Ruby represents the 40th wedding anniversary.

Sapphire

Worn by royalty throughout history, sapphire belongs to the corundum mineral group along with ruby.  In ancient times, it was believed that sapphire colored the sky.  Sapphire is a classic; one of the “Big Three”. It rates 9 on the Mohs scale, second only to diamond and is considered durable enough even for men’s wear. It is a popular alternative for an engagement ring. However, as with all fine jewelry, diamonds, and gemstones, sapphire requires some care in wearing. Sapphires can chip and scratch with heavy wear, so it’s recommended to take your rings off when active.

Due to sapphire’s high refractive index and hardness, they are a vibrant gemstone. Blue is the most common color, but sapphire is found in almost every color in the rainbow. Sapphires are mined in Australia, Burma, Sri Lanka, and East Africa. Sapphires are also mined in Montana and are named “Yogo” sapphires for their Yogo Gulch origin.

Fine cornflower blues are typical in “Ceylon” or Sri Lankan sapphires. Some consider this color bright and open. Vivid blue is the most valuable, mainly mined in Burma. However, the pinnacle of fine color blue sapphire is the Kashmir sapphire. Discovered in the late 19th century, sapphires mined in the Kashmir region display an electric blue unrivaled by any other. The mine was exhausted only 50 years after it was discovered, and you will only see Kashmir sapphires from older jewelry.

Most “blue” sapphire that’s marketed today is mined in Australia, the largest volume producer of sapphire in the world. This commercial (low) quality sapphire is dark ink blue and runs about $300 retail for a one-carat gemstone.  Fine quality sapphire runs $3,000 to $4,000 for a one-carat gemstone.

Padparadscha Sapphire

Padparadscha is the rarest color of sapphire. Think of the color of a warm tropical sunset. Orangey­ pink, a perfect balance of the two. These gems are even scarcer than fine rubies.

The vast majority of sapphires of all colors are heated to raise clarity (dissolve inclusions)  and enhance color. Diffusion is another type of treatment used to enhance color. Diffusion is a highly contested form of sapphire treatment, mainly due to the fact that the color saturation is only skin deep and can be affect with scratching or re-polishing.

Star Sapphire

Star sapphires and rubies are a phenomenal gem. Reflection of rutile needles within the gemstone cause the star, or asterism, intersecting in a hexagonal pattern (following the hexagonal crystal growth). Fine star sapphires were very popular about 40 years ago, but the industry has seen a decrease in availability of stars due to the prevalence of heat treatments at the source.  Quality factors in stars are a sharp (not blurry or wavy) six-sided star that extends to the edges. A top-quality gem will be translucent with a top not too high or shallow and a bottom not too heavy. And, of course, saturation of color is important.

Sapphire is said to foster creative expression, intuition, meditation, and mental clarity. It is also considered an antidote for depression. Medieval Kings believed that sapphire would protect them from harm and envy. By the time of the Renaissance, sapphires were coveted by the wealthy and influential. Sapphires were credited with the ability of preventing poverty, making an irritable man good-tempered and a stupid man wise.

Blue sapphire is considered September’s birthstone as well as representing the 5th and 45th wedding anniversaries. All sapphires are durable and wear well in rings.